I had a suspicion. I wanted to confirm my suspicion.
I then dusted off all my external drives and opened up my old Lightroom catalogs to count the number of pictures I had taken at various focal lengths.
In 2018, I shot 56% of my photos with a 16-35mm lens. This weighting is standard for anyone who shoots landscapes and nature.
By 2022, will this number still be the same? This number has dropped to just 23%. Last year, I shot more wide-angle photos (38%) than mid-range ones.
After charting my focal length data, I noticed two trends in landscape photography.
- Limiting the frames we take to whatever lens is attached at that moment. In landscape photography, this is usually a wide angle.
- A zoom lens that is anchored at one end. Last time, you chose 28mm for your 16-35mm lens or 170mm for your 70-200mm lens.
After reflecting on these concepts, let me share what I have learned about focal lengths in landscape photography. I encourage you to rethink the reasons that you select certain focal lengths.
Before we begin, let’s take a moment to discuss focal lengths. Others may consider 28mm wide or restrict telephoto lenses to 85mm and higher. The range of the camera doesn’t really matter. The more we take photos and the less time we spend arguing over arbitrary boundaries, the better.
WIDE: 12MM TO 24-MM
Landscape photography and wide-angle scenes are like karaoke and soundproof booths.
Wide-angle lenses offer a large field of view, which is perfect for capturing stunning sky displays and sweeping landscapes. These grand scenes may be the reason many of us began landscape photography.
They’re about (much more) than getting everything in frame.
They can also be used to emphasize foreground objects because of their wide-angle view. You can also get close to the scene to highlight a supporting element, such as ferns that fan out or rocks with texture.
When you get close, be aware of what is in focus. Increase the depth of field by using a small aperture, such as f/16. Consider focus bracketing, which involves taking shots at different distances, such as 30cm or 60cm.
The wider the field of view, the more likely you are to have distractions in the frame. Another one? Your background (such as mountains) will be smaller if you use a wider focal length.
Zoom in at 20mm or 24mm to counter these issues. The foreground will appear less dramatic. A tighter focal distance will allow the midground and background to take up a greater proportion of your frame, say 30% instead of 20%.
SIDE NOTE:
Before we move on to mid-range focal points, I’d like to share some thoughts about prime lenses for landscape photography.
In nature, we are often dealing with scenes that are not scripted. The versatility of a lens is more important for landscape photography than portraiture or product photography.
In controlled environments, an all-purpose lens will perform better than a bright and sharp prime. When I first started exploring street photography, I discovered that a lens with a fixed focal range was the best choice for capturing fleeting moments.
Prime lenses are best for night photography. A 14mm f/1.8 will give you cleaner astro photos than a 16-35mm f/2.8 lens. If you photograph sunrise seascapes often, a 20mm lens will provide you with incredibly sharp results. My first wide-angle was a Tokina 20mm manual focus f/2.
Primes have their place in landscape photography–particularly when you head out with a set purpose. If you don’t know what you will find, such as in the forest or on a hike, then a prime lens is a good choice. A mid-range zoom lens between 24-70mm would be the only one I would pack.
MID: 24MM – 70MM
The mid-range lens is ideal for capturing images as you see them. These lenses don’t have the distortion that wide-angle lenses do, nor do they compress images like telephoto ones.
In 2021, my appreciation for them increased when I dabbled in the world of street photography. What is my camera? My camera? The Fujifilm X100V. The fixed 35mm lens was a great way to train my eye for photography.
The landscapes I take are dominated by my 24-70mm zoom lens.
For nature and forest photography, around 28-50mm provides the perfect field of vision. It is often narrow enough to exclude bright patches in the sky. It’s wide enough for the background ferns and other trees to complement the main subject.
You can start to focus on certain features within the scene (like textured or shaped rocks or trees). If you’re looking to zoom in on a specific frame, what about a telephoto? Telephotos are the best option.
TELEPHOTO: 70MM – 200MM+
Telephoto focal lengths let you isolate individual frames. Compositions can be unique and creative.
You might choose to focus instead on the ripples or reflections in the water when you see a spectacular sunrise. You can also choose to focus on a particular mountain peak rather than the entire range.
You can frame scenes by zooming in at 100mm or 200m. You can zoom in to see a few trees or dunes.
You’ll notice that as you use a telephoto, the scene becomes quieter and smaller. You’ll often instinctively exclude the skies.
You can pick out tiny details on a larger landscape at the very end of the telephoto (300mm or beyond). Maybe a tree in the distance. Or perhaps the snow-covered edge of a mountain.
There are two important things to consider when using a Telephoto Lens:
- Shaky camera: As your focal length increases, your camera’s stability will also increase. Even on sunny days, I will often use a camera tripod and set the shutter to 10 seconds.
- Atmospheric Haze: With the telephoto lens, you can shoot across hundreds of meters of air. On a hot, hazy day, distant scenes can start to shimmer and become less sharp. What’s the fix? If possible, try to get closer to the subject or come back on a crisp, cool morning.
Final Thoughts
Asking yourself questions and exercising creative control are key to choosing the correct lens and focal distance.
Or do you want to exclude context? Do you want to exclude context?
Or do you prefer to use smaller frames? Do you want to show a grander scene or a smaller frame?
Sometimes, more is less in landscape photography. Sometimes more is better.
It is important to consider the effect of your chosen focal length on your photos. Wide-angle lenses can be distorted by a few mm. Switching to a zoom lens will allow you to see more creative compositions.
